Tuesday 5 June 2012

Where we beenia? Only Slovenia (and a bit of Croatia, too).


We’ve had quite a lot of things to consider this last week or so; budget, which we knew would come up; what we want to get out of our trip, experiences etc; what the weather will be doing (as this has some impact on where we stay and how we spend our time) and also altitude, which we didn’t think would come up at all.
 
There are a lot of mountains down where we have been (unavoidable unless you can afford to take the toll roads, bridges, passes or trains) and the van hates them and, as lovely as they are, we’re ashamed to say that we became a bit complacent towards them too.  We’ve had a couple of weeks or so of willing the bus up steep winding roads (and hoping it would stop coming down them) wrestling the heavy steering around serpentine twists and turns so we thought we’d head for lower ground and water level, I.E the bloody beach (weather permitting)!  This kind of thinking led us to blast through Slovenia which was a shame as it is surprisingly beautiful, seemed pretty chilled and the people very friendly.

We initially headed for the ‘must see’ Bled lake in the North. The only trouble was every tourist in Slovenia had obviously felt that they ‘must see’ the lake too at the very same time, something that we’re coming up against quite a lot.  There ain’t nothing like hanging with the coach trip crowd to dampen the spirits.  Invariably the lake had been ruined somewhat by the hotels and tacky gift shops built up around it and therein lies the problem with wanting to visit natural places of beauty and get away from it all, everyone does, you’re never really alone, especially in Europe.  So we’re finding the freedom we crave and the real experience (whatever that means) of a country hard to come by sometimes.  Travelling in a van offers you some freedom but you can be restricted - especially in an older, slower bus like ours - as to where you can reach and safely park up for free away from other people.  Campsites often offer little respite as these can be hit and miss and tend to be centred around packing people into a coastal area, lake or mountain range and free camping is frowned upon in some places but you takes ya chance.  Not all doom and gloom by any stretch of the imagination but we’ve found we have entered a period of reflection regarding what it is we actually want to achieve by doing all this.  We read somewhere before we headed off that what others doing something similar had found most challenging was having too much time and too many options; something we would partly agree with at this point in time. We are also having to weigh up the cost of reaching remote places - and not killing our bus - against the desire to find something more than campsites and being amongst rows of mobile-homes.  We want to ensure that we have more fulfilling experiences that stay with us and help shape our future.

So, we’ve decided to sell the van and become Slovenian goat botherer’s.  We haven’t, of course. I’ve had a restraining order banning me from going within 100 yards of a goat for some years now.  Belated apologies to ‘Billy’.  It was dark, I was drunk, I thought you were ‘Larry’.

Back to the trip.

We left Bled pretty sharpish and found a hotel in a lovely little town that had a stellplatz for 10 Euros.  Still one or two other vans there but much closer to what we are after.  Had a sunny evening stroll around the tiny village to find the only shop and walked back across fields.  Slovenia being fairly small, about the same size as glorious Wales, we headed out for a drive across the country the next day after first climbing up to what was described as Slovenia’s ‘most perfect example of an old castle’.  I’ll say nothing other than at least the view was dramatic.  Our drive took us through more stunning, but now familiar, mountain ranges so we performed a perfect 360 degree hand-brake turn complete with screeching tyres and dust cloud and headed for Slovenia’s small, but perfectly formed, coastline.  

With an eye on our moola we opted for another free stay at a marina stellplatz in Izola. There she was.  The clear blue sparkling Adriatic, in full HD3D sunshine.  Brilliant stopover in great little town which could only have been bettered had we; a) paid the 15 Euros to actually stay there and saved us a night of not looking over our shoulders and b) it wasn’t on a main road.  A really good stop this though, beers by the sea for the first time in ages and after a lot of kilometres (miles are so very British).
Up early to avoid the potential parking fine or clamp and we headed straight across the boarder into Croatia.  First impressions? Awesome. An absolutely stunning drive along the coastline and across the bridge to the Island of Krk’s most southerly town, Baska. A campsite for a few days relaxing. Not too bad a place as it offered free camping set back from the crowd – you could park where you like, not, not pay – which was cheaper than all of the vans bunched up on the beach like a shanty town.  Decent beach, great swimming, lovely town in the early morning when just the locals.

Still fairly busy, even in June, we decided to head off after a few nights and head back to the mainland.  Good decision.  If you have to stay on campsites, which we’d rather not do, you want something special and sparsely populated if possible. After a drive along the Adriatic Highway - which we’ve vowed to return to and cycle rather than drive one day – we found Camp Ujca hidden away down a steep hill, through a long tunnel and tucked into a gorgeous cove.  A little campsite with just a few tents and with the opportunity to park right on the beach meaning that we could tick one item off of the ‘trip wish list’, opening the van door in the morning, stepping out and jumping into a clear blue sea. So, this is where you leave us for now: happy, free, having fun but lots to consider over the next few weeks...




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